Does your Pelton Crane Sterilizer seems to function just fine when you first start it, building up temperature & pressure like it is supposed to, only to evacuate the water back into the reservoir before the cycle has finished?
This is symptomatic of either the Bellows or the Main Valve malfunctioning and are Repairs You can Do yourself.
Cherry Side Tables
The Bellows
During the FILL cycle the main valve is dumping water into the sterilizing chamber while each of the three heating elements are warming up the chamber. As the chamber warms up, cold air is pushed out through the bellows housing. When the air gets hot enough, the bellows expands and closes off the valve and allows the system to pressurize. During the VENTING cycle everything operates in reverse. The main valve is opened, the sterilizing chamber vents through the condensation coils in the water reservoir. When the pressure is released and the air-cools, the bellows contracts to its original size.
Replacement of the Bellows is a normal preventative maintenance item that should be done at least annually. If this hasn't been done for a while, start by replacing it first and then check the operation again. The Main Valve
The Main Valve normally opens and closes allowing the water to flow in and out of the chamber.
When the main valve is in the STERILIZE mode, the valve closes off the FILLING port to the main chamber and at the same time applies total line voltage to the center heating element only. The two outside heating elements are not energized in the STERILIZE mode. A mechanical timer is set by the operator for the duration of the STERILIZE cycle (30 minutes). Keep in mind, the timer is not a switching mechanism, it only alerts you when the set time is up.
Once the bell goes off, it is your responsibility to go back to the machine and turn the control knob to the VENTING position. This in turn opens the VENT side of the main valve and allows steam to vent back into the water reservoir. At this time, once again the line voltage is divided equally by the three heating elements. The operator opens the door just slightly, resets the timer and allows the instruments to dry. When the DRYING cycle is complete, the operator turns the control knob to the OFF position, which shuts off all power and closes the main valve.As technical as all this may sound, the fact of the matter is both of these fixes are pretty straight-forward repairs - and - something you can do yourself. A wrench, a screwdriver and perhaps a pair of pliers are the only tools you will need.